Travel Biography Photo Extravaganza - Part 17.

About both the 1978 and the 1995 Grand Canyon Rim-to-River Hikes.

In 1978, I planned to spend a day at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It was one of many stops on a backpacking journey around the United States, using the Greyhound Bus visitor's pass known as the Ameripass. However, I discovered a trail leading into the Canyon after arriving at the South Rim. I found out that it was the 9.6-mile Bright Angel Trail, and it carried both hikers and mule riders down to the floor, over a mile beneath the rims.

Near the trailhead, a building known as the Bright Angel Lodge had a booking kiosk. I thought that by asking for details about the trail, I might learn something. Immediately, I was offered a bed at Phantom Ranch, that is, accommodation on the Canyon's floor near the Colorado River. I accepted the offer with enthusiasm! And so, the destiny of this 25-year-old changed from a day visitor to an overnighter, one who would see far more of the Canyon than just from the Rim. This included standing by the River, which, from where the Village stood, was hidden from the Rim.

However, as a keen photographer who always recorded on film life's most extraordinary events, the next morning after the descent, I snapped away at the surrounding scenery and the Colorado River before the energy-draining hike back out of the Canyon. The 19.2-mile hike was successfully completed and on schedule too.

But when I arrived back home, I saw that the Inner Canyon photos were nothing more than silhouettes contrasting with the cyan sky and River. This was one of life's biggest disappointments. Therefore, I had always wished for a second visit and to re-hike the Bright Angel Trail using a better camera. 

Such an opportunity arose in 1995, 17 years after my last visit to the States in 1978. I was about to turn 43 years of age when I arrived back at the Canyon during early Autumn. Despite any setbacks, I was determined to reach the floor, spend the night there, and record on film the adventure, this time, with success, and a beautiful photo album to show for it. Furthermore, I wanted the hike to be educational. For example, during the 19th Century, a geologist who was also interested in Eastern religions explored the Canyon and noted that some of the buttes and mesas took on certain shapes when viewed from a particular angle. Hence, he gave them names which stuck to this day. Naming certain buttes, especially near the Corridor Trails, and identifying them on the hike and in a photo album brings out the grandeur of the adventure.

Below is a stock photo of the Grand Canyon taken with a camera suitable for commercial use. It shows what you see as you approach the South Rim at the area of the Village and Visitor's Center. What I have done was identify the more familiar buttes and features using a colour code. This should enable you to locate each feature that appears in the main album by using the stock photo as a template and working out the orientation of each feature by comparing its location with the model. It would be better to click on the photo to expand it before studying.

Stock Photo of the Grand Canyon as seen from the Rim.

Key to the Colour Code:

Cyan: Cheops Pyramid.

Red: Buddha Temple Butte.

Yellow: Plateau Point.

White: Indian Gardens.

Green: Bright Angel Canyon.

Orange: Near Zoroaster Temple Butte (but it's just off the picture).

The overall length of the 1995 hike was approximately 23 miles (37 kilometers). This included a short spur from Phantom Ranch towards the North Rim and then back to the Ranch before commencing with the return ascent to the South Rim. At Indian Gardens, I branched off the main trail from the River and headed to Plateau Point, on the tip of the level "step" between the Outer and the Inner Gorge, known as the Tonto Plateau. This diversion added a further three miles to the overall hiking distance, a 1.5-mile extension each way.

The ratio of those staying overnight within the Canyon is about 1% of the total number of daily visitors, including dayhikers. However, at Plateau Point, I was entirely alone. I assume that the fantastic views seen from Plateau Point are missed by all but a very few. How fortunate I was to be numbered among those few!

This album contains the 23-mile return hike from Phantom Ranch back to South Rim, including the diversion from Indian Gardens to Plateau Point. Thus, there are some photos here that aren't found in many photo albums of the Grand Canyon.

This week contains the photos taken on the ascent back to the South Rim and the Village. 

Click here for the Index linking these photos to the main Biography, Weeks 58-61.

Photos of the 1995 Grand Canyon Ascent.

Early Morning at Phantom Ranch.

Individual huts at Phantom Ranch.

Mules waiting to transport cargo to South Rim.

Bright Angel Creek flows past Phantom Ranch.

Gneiss Bedrock, facing towards the South Rim.

Bright Angel Creek flows from the little footbridge. 

The bridge links the Ranch with a Campground.

Loaded and ready to go.

Where there's water, there are trees.

Looking towards the North Rim from the Ranch.

About to cross the Colorado River on Silver Bridge.

A section of the South Rim seen from the Bridge.

I leave Silver Bridge behind.

Looking east upstream at Zoroaster Temple Butte.

A raft sails downstream.

Another view of the Colorado River.

Morning view of the Inner Canyon.

I get my feet wet before the Ascent.

A species of Cactus.

Pipe Creek.

Pipe Creek flows down the Devil's Corkscrew.

The Devil's Corkscrew cuts through the Gneiss Bedrock.

Looking northwest from the Corkscrew.

Looking back down the Corkscrew.

Buddha Temple Butte seen from the Corkscrew.

Panoramic view of the Corkscrew.

A section of the South Rim.

A view of the South Rim from Indian Gardens.

Here at Indian Gardens, I divert to Plateau Point.

The River seen from Plateau Point.

Tapeats Sandstone rests on Gneiss Bedrock.

The River cuts through Gneiss Granite. Plateau Point.

How the River appears from Plateau Point.

Zoroaster Temple and Brahmans Temple Buttes.

Cheops Pyramid as seen from Plateau Point.

South Rim as seen from Plateau Point.

Heading through Indian Gardens towards the South Rim.

The Hike over, showered and refreshed.

El Tovar Hotel was a welcoming sight.

Fred Harvey's log cabins make up the Village.

Signs like this one are found in American National Parks.

Eve casts a shadow as the evening draws in.

San Francisco Peaks as seen from Flagstaff.

In Flagstaff, I spent a night and a day.

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Next Week, I stop at Phoenix, Arizona, to visit the Papago Botanical Gardens.