Travel Biography Photo Extravaganza - Part 29.

Arrival at Arlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands.

To recap, in 1997, I flew with British Airways from London Heathrow to Singapore. After spending five days there, I carried on with the journey to Australia with Qantas Airlines to Cairns, in North Queensland. Cairns was the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, and from there, I snorkelled and took underwater pictures of the corals surrounding two coral cays, Green Island and Low Isles.

I then moved on by surface travel on the Greyhound Bus to Townsville, which served as a gateway to Magnetic Island, an excellent venue for day hiking to take in some panoramic views. It was also in Townsville where I visited the Great Barrier Reef Headquarters, the largest coral aquarium in the world. I also had a chance to visit the Billabong Wildlife Sanctuary, where wallabies, which are related to the kangaroos, were taken care of, along with the koala; such mammal species are unique to Australia.

I then journeyed on by bus to Arlie Beach, which was further south along the Queensland coast. It was here that I came close to mangrove trees for the first time in my life, and I was fascinated by them! There were several different species. For example, those flourishing at Arlie Beach were different from those at Brisbane and Coffs Harbour. With the warmer climate and suitable environment, mangrove trees at Arlie Beach were taller and looked more robust.

Arlie Beach was also a gateway to a group of offshore islands, the Whitsunday archipelago of forested continental islands, which are partially submerged hills. These islands were given that name by Captain James Cook when his ship, the HMS Endeavour, passed by those islands on a Whitsunday Bank Holiday. During my stay at Arlie Beach, a small catamaran took us to these islands, starting with Hook Island. From the air, Hook Island resembles an animal's foot with three claws. The two inlets separating the three fingers are Nara Inlet and Macona Inlet. Hook Island features ancient Aboriginal art, two ovals resembling tennis racquets. They were around 4,000 years old, so I was told.

The next island we set foot on was Whitsunday Island, the largest of the archipelago. It boasted a beach of white sand, consisting of silicon. When I walked along the beach, the fine white sand squeaked under each footstep. White Haven Beach was the rim of an ancient, submerged caldera formed when a volcano exploded. From the beach, a trailhead led into the tropical forest to an area of high ground. From the summit, I enjoyed magnificent views of the surrounding area, including Lindeman Island of the neighbouring Cumberland archipelago. As far as I was aware, I was alone during the hike and had the views to myself.

The third island we were taken to was Border Island, which boasted a fringing reef. During the sailing, we were all offered snorkelling gear. However, unlike the previous catamarans I boarded, this one was a small one and had no shop to buy an underwater camera. However, the sky was overcast over the island, and I wondered how the underwater photography would have turned out. Nevertheless, to this day, I wish that I had recorded on film the magnificent submarine garden of corals, including the recognisable Brain Coral. At Border Island, the water surrounding it was deep; hence, the corals were the most luxuriant of all three venues visited.

Arrival at Hervey Bay and the hike on K'gari.

It was time to move on. Another Greyhound Bus dropped me off at Hervey Bay, which is further south along the Queensland coast. Since leaving Cairns, I have travelled about 900 miles, or 1,446 km, along the coastal road to my latest stop. As with all stops I made already, Hervey Bay is also a gateway to an offshore island, Fraser Island, as it was in 1997, but now called by its Aboriginal name of K'gari.

Lake McKenzie, K'gari.

I found the town of Hervey Bay of moderate interest, as it was mainly a residential settlement, perhaps known here in the UK as a dormitory town. Its surroundings were a contrast to the environment surrounding Cairns. Around Cairns, the Great Divide Range reached the coastline. Here at Hervey Bay, the range begins around 40-50 miles inland. Therefore, the town is surrounded by a flat, forested plain. It's my opinion that if Hervey Bay weren't a gateway to an offshore island, most backpackers would have bypassed the town, as was the case with Coffs Harbour in NSW. 

Yet it boasted several backpackers' hostels. That was easy to understand. Since its harbour was the gateway to the world's largest sandbank, the ferry crossing attracts groups of tourists throughout the year. When I was there, it was during the Australian winter, yet the numbers remained high.

K'gari is the home of the Dingo, a pure canine breed which flourishes as a wild dog. Shy by nature, in the past, tourists fed them with titbits. This was then banned, as the Dingo has since formed packs to chase tourists for their free feed. Hence, by 1997, all tourists arrived in groups. The smaller groups hired a jeep to explore the island together and without a guide. Then there was a larger group escorted by a guide. Since I had no license to drive a vehicle, I chose the escorted group.

However, I had the opportunity for a lone hike along the forested trail alongside the Wanggoolba Creek while the rest of the group went elsewhere. Some time later, I rejoined the group to be taken to Lake McKenzie, where I had a swim with just one other person, a female backpacker, Christine, from Europe, who, between us, became friends. Lake McKenzie holds the record for being the purest body of freshwater in the world. While the rest of the group sat some distance from the lake and did nothing, Christine and I enjoyed a good swim in the clean, pure water before we were all driven back to the ferry port.

Click here for the Index to the main Biography covering these venues, which are weeks 82-87.

Photos of the Whitsunday Islands Catamaran trip.

This catamaran left Arlie Beach for the Whitsundays.

We landed at Hook Island.

A view of the open sea from Hook Island.

Nara Inlet, Hook Island.

4,000-year-old cave art, Hook Island.

A seaplane takes off from Whitsunday as we approach.

I pose at Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island.

Our boat, moored at Whitehaven Beach.

I begin the short hike through the forest.

I spot a lizard climbing a tree.

I continue with the hike.

Until I reach the summit. A view of Whitsunday Peak.

Faraway Lindeman Island is to the right.

The island's dramatic coast.

View of nearby Haslewood Island.

Back on board, we leave Whitsunday Island...

For Border Island, for a reef snorkelling session.

After a time for fringe reef snorkelling, we headed home.

Photos of Hervey Bay coast and K'gari.

Evening scene of Hervey Bay.

The mainland coast as we headed for K'gari.

So unlike the Cairns area. Here is just a flat plain.

We approach the world's largest sandbank.

This is the start of the Wanggoolba Trail, K'gari.

The trail cuts through thick tropical forest...

On what was Fraser Island.

On my own, I follow Wanggoolba Creek.

This fern is several hundred years old.

Wanggoolba Creek.

Alone but happy on this forested trail.

I didn't record the name of this bird. Can you?

Christine has her back to me at Lake McKenzie.

After the swim, she took this of me.

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Next Week, Brisbane.

Travel Biography Photo Extravaganza - Part 28.

A Recap on Cairns as I journey to Townsville, and then to Arlie Beach.

In 1997, Cairns was the beginning of a new adventure, although in reality, it wasn't really new. Only in a different country, Australia, a British Commonwealth nation that was once a colony of the British Empire. During the 1970s and in 1995, I had a similar experience, travelling around on a public coach service, specifically a Greyhound bus, across the North American continent. And now, I was about to embark on the same journey, this time with the nighttime Southern Cross constellation in the heavens looking down from directly above. 

However, the entire journey from Cairns to Sydney was considerably shorter than the one from New York to San Francisco via San Diego and Los Angeles. While the 1995 American Dream covered four weeks, my stay in Australia was nearly six weeks. Down Under, I stayed at each stop for a longer period, allowing me to get better acquainted with the local environment I found myself in.

As for Cairns, as a city in itself, it wasn't different to many other cities. However, I noticed that it possessed a unique set of qualities. Firstly, having a tidal mudflat for a beach must have provided an ideal haven for a variety of wildlife, especially mud dwellers. Unlike on a sandy or pebbly beach, no one would spread a towel or blanket on a mudflat or swim in the sea. Hence, I was able to enjoy its natural state, untouched by tourism or daytrippers.

Secondly, Cairns is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, and access to it in the nineties was easy and inexpensive. While I was there, I had the impression that tourism to the Reef was still in its infancy, despite competition among the diving centres dotted across town. Unfortunately, over the decades, tourism, along with the warming of the sea due to climate change, has decimated parts of the Reef, especially around Green Island and perhaps at Low Isles too. Indeed, the timing of my visit was timely.

Thirdly, the Trinity Forest Reservation covering the hills south of the town provided a splendid backdrop, which kept my camera shutter constantly clicking. Indeed, the reservation was inaccessible for hikers due to the mouth of the Chinaman River, and although there was no bridge, nevertheless, the whole vista was enhanced by the presence of water.

And now it was time to move on. When reserving a seat on the Greyhound Bus, I chose Townsville for my next stop. However, after arriving there, I found this city less touristy, more industrious and less interesting than Cairns, fewer diving centres, and with little or no access to the Reef. However, it boasted the largest coral reef aquarium in the world, known as the Reef Headquarters, and it was worth a day's visit. However, the aquarium was later closed and its building demolished in 2021, and a new building on the same site is due to open in 2026. 

Townsville was backed by the 286-metre-high monolith, Castle Hill. Unfortunately, I didn't hike up the hill, as the lookout would have offered stunning views of the town, its harbour, and about five miles (8km) offshore, Magnetic Island would also be seen.

Stock photo of the Reef HQ as it was in 1997.

Magnetic Island was given that name by Captain James Cook whilst on board the HMS Endeavour. As he passed its coastline, so the story goes, his magnetic compass went haywire. However, later research proved that the island had no unique magnetic properties, yet the name stuck. My stay in Townsville was centred on both the aquarium and a short ferry crossing to Nelly Bay on the island. Here, day hikes offer vistas of the World War II fort, from magnificent views of Radical Beach, Horseshoe Bay, and the island's highest peak, Mt Cook, at 493 metres in height, are all seen at once.

In this album, I also include photos of the Billabong Wildlife Sanctuary. It's on the route out of Townsville as the bus headed to my next destination, Arlie Beach, which makes up the second half of this album. In this sanctuary (and it wasn't a zoo), I had full access to both the Koalas and the Wallabies, which are related to the Kangaroo, all of them unique to Australia, along with the Silver-Crested Cockatoo. The bird was caged, but I was able to gently stroke the Koala and stand in the same enclosure with the Wallabies.

Accommodation in Townsville was at a private, unaffiliated backpacker's hostel in the city centre and not far from the Greyhound Bus Station. As with all other hostels, it too had a member's kitchen and dining room. Buying groceries and cooking my own meals was what turned such a dream of travelling around the world a reality.

After three days, I journeyed on to Arlie Beach, which is further south along the Queensland coast. To me, Arlie Beach was a better stop than Townsville. Arlie Beach and its nearby town of Cannonvale were in a more scenic setting, and Arlie Beach had a harbour and a marina which gave access to the Whitsunday Islands, a continental archipelago of partly sunken hills which has ancient art, hiking trails, and fringing reefs. Also at Arlie Beach, I basically had a room of my own in an otherwise empty dormitory. Catering facilities were also featured at the lovely backpackers' resort.

It was at Arlie Beach where, for the first time, I came up close to Mangrove trees. This fascinating vegetation, with its roots above water at low tide to allow it to "breathe", flourishes within the Tropical Belt of the Oceania region and as far south as New South Wales. I felt awstruck just by looking at them.

This week's album has photos of my arrival at Arlie Beach. Photos of my trip to the Whitsundays will feature next week. 

For the link to the Index of the main Biography covering my arrival at Townsville and Arlie Beach, click here. This album is covered in Weeks 82-87.

Photos of Townsville and Magnetic Island.

A Fountain near the coast, Townsville.

Townsville City Centre, near the hostel.

The town is backed by Castle Hill.

Reef HQ. At one of the coral aquariums.

This time, I stayed dry. But it's not the same.

In another tank, a swordfish.

A hiking trail begins on Magnetic Island.

A WWII lookout post against Chinese invasion.

Radical Bay as seen from near the Fort.

Around the Fort, I was totally alone. But I hiked on.

Horseshoe Bay.

Mt Cook, the highest hill of the Island.

Another view of Horseshoe Bay.

A Silver-Crested Cockatoo, Billabong Sanctuary.

I had access to a Koala pen at Billabong Sanctuary.

I was free to caress, even cuddle one.

I stroked its back. It didn't seem to mind.

I then entered the Wallaby pen.

There were several Wallabies in the pen.

Like the Koala, they don't seem to mind my presence.

I finally leave them be.

Photos of my arrival at Arlie Beach.

The backpackers' resort at Arlie Beach.

Scenic view of the environment.

Birds fly across the Esplanade at Arlie Beach.

Arlie Beach Town.

Relaxing at the Esplanade.

Public swim enclosures protect against stingers.

Mangroves!

A view towards the Whitsundays.

Arlie Beach Marina.

The forested Great Divide continues along the coast.

On the beach, I come across some mangrove trees.

 Standing next to a tree gives the scale.

I caught this individual on camera.

A close-up of the roots of a mangrove.

Aussie definitions:

Billabong - A pond left behind when a river seasonally dries up.

Stingers - A common name for the Box Jellyfish, also known as a Sea Wasp. Its sting can be fatal.

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Next week, the boat trip to the Whitsundays.