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Saturday, 21 December 2024

Travel Biography - Photo Extravaganza - Part 1.

Introduction.

At the foot of last week's Index, I wrote that I'll be posting the Christmas Photo Extravaganza covering the whole Travel Biography. Looking through the albums and slides, I realised that posting the entire Biography on just one week's blog would be too impractical. Therefore, the display would be divided into several parts over the coming weeks, each week specifying a certain venue or group of venues. All the photos are my own, there will be no stock pictures. Furthermore, all venues will be set in chronological order.

The photo display is significant, as it reveals Travel as it was up to 52 years ago when in 1972 we (a college friend and I) took our first trip overseas without our parents. We were both 19 at the time when we flew from Gatwick to Gerona Airport in Spain for eleven days at the Costa Brava. In 1975, I went to visit Rome, and back then, the Basilica of St Peter, the Colosseum, the Forum, and the Circus Maximus were free to enter, with no queues, and no need for security gates. 

Likewise, a year later in 1976, access to Hezekiah's Tunnel, or the Tunnel of Siloam, was free and consisted of a short flight of steps leading straight into a cave-like entrance at Gihon Spring, located at the foot of a cliff, directly from the street. By checking a couple of Internet sites, I found out that entry into the Tunnel is, at present, part of a tour into the recently excavated City of David, and there is an entrance fee to the site, which is near Dung Gate of Jerusalem's Old City.

Likewise, St Peter's Basilica, in 1975, was fully accessible, and one could walk straight up and enter through one of its main doors, like that of any church. Nowadays, although entry into the basilica itself is still free, there is a long queue as every visitor must pass through Security before being allowed in. Also, ranger-led tours are available with a skip-the-line scheme which raises the price of the tour.

As you browse these 35 photos, especially that of the Holy Land, one issue stands out - the lack of crowds. Indeed, some people were milling around the Dome of the Rock but looked to be a group of escorted tourists.  And where the Holy Land is concerned, over the years the vast majority of tourists were in escorted groups, especially Christian pilgrimage holidays. A lone Christian backpacker was a rare sight in the Holy Land.

However, I was with only one other person whilst inside the Tunnel of Siloam, and he lived almost directly above it. He was a member of the Muslim family who was tasked to look after the site and allowed visitors in - back then quite seldom. Nowadays, the Tunnel is part of the City of David archaeological site and crowds buy tickets to enter. Therefore, on a busy day, the Tunnel can get crowded with tourists.

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem was very much the same. In 1976, I approached the building from the street, entered the Eastern Orthodox church and made my way downstairs to the crypt where the star is located. There were only one or two other people in the crypt. At present, so I heard through the grapevine, a wait of up to two hours separates one's arrival at the church and actually gazing at the star, due to the crowds.

A word on St Peter's House in Capernaum. In 1976, the site remained the original area of archaeology, open to the sky and featuring the remains of several octagonal churches built over the centuries. At present, there is a modern Catholic church built on legs to suspend it directly over the site and with a glass floor through which visitors can see the site directly below. To me, this modern atrocity has no place over the ruins, as the contrast between new and old makes the edifice stand out like a sore thumb. No doubt, some would disagree.

Hence, these photos show what life was like during my younger days before mass tourism took hold.

All the photos displayed on this week's page are original. They were from the acetate film on which either 12 or 24 square negatives measuring 62x62 mm were taken. Thus, editing of each one was required.

For the Biography Index, click here.

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The Photo Display.

These are pics of the 1972 trip to Spain.

View of Tossa-de-Mar, a resort on the Costa Brava.


Beach seen from the Castle, Tossa-de-Mar.


Posing in front of the ruins.


At the Bullring, Barcelona.

Italy - 1973, 1975.

 
At the Crater, Mt Vesuvius, Italy 1973.


Inside the Crater, Mt Vesuvius.

                                     
Temple of Jupiter, Pompeii, 1973.


The Amphitheatre, Pompeii.

                                       
Basilica St Peter, Vatican City, 1975.


View of St Peter's Square from the Cupola.


10 of the 12 Apostles on the Basilica's Roof.

In 1976, I spent three weeks in the Holy Land, the first of the four trips to the Middle East.


Approaching Temple Mount, Jerusalem, 1976.


The Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem.


The Russian Orthodox Church, Mt of Olives.


The Western Wall.


The Chapel of the Ascension, Mt of Olives.


I Entered Hezekiah's Tunnel with one other person.


I look up at the high section of the Tunnel.


In the middle of the Tunnel. A candle gives light.


Ow! I bump my head on the low ceiling. I wasn't hurt.


General view of Bethlehem.

                                      
The Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem.


The 14-prong star marks the site of the Saviour's Birth.


At the Star of Bethlehem with one other person.


The Synagogue in Capernaum. Jesus was here.


Another view of the Synagogue.


Fishing boats at the Sea of Galilee, 1976.


Looking south towards Tiberias from Capernaum.


St. Peter's House, Capernaum, as it was in 1976.


On the cruiser to Tiberias from Capernaum.


The Church of the Annunciation, Nazareth.


Approaching Jericho and its ancient Tel.


Detail of Ancient Jericho.


At Hebron, Tombs of the Patriarchs.


About to float on the Dead Sea.


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Next Week: North America 1977 and possibly 1978.

Saturday, 14 December 2024

Travel Biography - Index.

With the Travel Biography completed this week, I'll assemble an index of all 129 weeks. The idea is that if you wish to read one or two blogs or a whole section (e.g., America 1995 or Round the World 1997), you can access the appropriate week without the need for excess scrolling. Since indexes don't make exciting reads, I have added photos of myself to this blog. All of them are original, either taken by a family member or by a passing stranger.

Grand Canyon Hike, 1995.



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Weeks 1-3. Childhood, Holidays with Parents, College Life, First Trip without Parents in 1972, First Backpacking Trip to Italy in 1973...click here.

Weeks 4-8. The 1975 Trip to Rome. The first Backpacking Trip to Israel in 1976...click here.

Around 2 or 3 years old, circa 1954.


Around 19 years old, 1972. 


A little older, aged 20, taken in 1973.



Week 10. Trying to get a Visa from the US Embassy in London, 1977...click here.

Weeks 11-16. First Transatlantic flight to North America in 1977, landing in Toronto and then entering the USA at Detroit...click here.

Weeks 17-23. 2nd Trip to the USA in 1978...click here. The start of my first Grand Canyon Hike...click here. Week 24 is a pictorial not related to the 1978 trip to America. Weeks 25-26, the 1978 trip to the States resumes...click here.

Weeks 27-29. Backpacking northern Italy, 1981 - Pisa, Florence, Cinque Terre, Italy before the rise of local tourism...click here.

Week 30-35. Backpacking Southern Italy, 1982, including up Mt Etna...click here.

Weeks 37-40. France, Cycling across Western Europe, mid-1980s...click here.

Inside Hezekiah's Tunnel, Israel, 1976, aged 23.


Hollywood, as it was in 1977. I was 24.


Niagara Falls, Canada, 1977.


About to hike the Grand Canyon, 1978, aged 25.



Weeks 42-45. John O'Groats to Land's End, or End-to-End Cycle Ride, 1990...click here.

Week 46. The 1991 Lulworth Cove-Dover Cycle Ride plus crossing into France...click here.

Week 47. The Lake District with Gareth, 1992...click here.

Weeks 48-51. The 1993 Trip to Israel begins after a review of past trips...click here.

Weeks 52-55. Staying in Israel as a volunteer, 1994...click here.

Weeks 56-72. the 1995 Trip to the USA, including the 2nd Hike down the Grand Canyon. Weeks 58-61...click here for the hiking details. San Diego, weeks 63-66, including Tijuana, Mexico...click here. Weeks 67-70, Santa Monica, Disneyland, Downtown LA...here. Weeks 70-72, San Francisco...here. 

Weeks 74-107. The 1997 Round the World - Singapore, Australia, California...click here.

Weeks 74-78 - Part One: Singapore...here.

Weeks 78-96 - Part Two: Australia.

Weeks 78-81 Cairns, Green Island Coral Cay, Low Isles Coral Cay, Great Barrier Reef...here.
Weeks 82-87, Townsville, Arlie Beach, Fraser Island, Brisbane...click here.
Weeks 88-92, Byron Bay, Coffs Harbour...click here.
Weeks 93-96 Sydney, Blue Mountains National Park...click here.
Week 96 - The Trans-Pacific Flight from Sydney to Los Angeles, the domestic flight from L.A. to San Diego...click here.

Weeks 97-107 - Part three: California.

Weeks 97-100 - San Diego 1997...click here.
Weeks 101-104 Santa Barbara...click here. San Luis Obispo, Avila Beach...click here. Hollywood 1997, click here.
Weeks 105-107 Santa Monica 1997...click here.

My fittest years, 1986


At the Grand Canyon, 1995, aged 43


Cairns, 1997, aged 44.



Weeks 108-112 New York 1998...click here. Boston, weeks 113-116...here.

Week 117 - The 1998 Hadrian's Wall Hike with Tim and Dan...click here.

Week 118 - The attempted cycle ride to Llangollen, North Wales, 1998...click here.

Week 119 - My future wife Alex joins me at the Stoneleigh Bible Festival...click here.

Week 120 - My final backpacking holiday as a singleton - hiking at the Lake District from Kendal to Keswick, 1998...click here.

Our Wedding in 1999, I was 47. 


Wedding suit long gone! This was Eilat, Israel, 2000.


The birth of my 3rd Daughter, Victoria in 2008.



Week 121 - Our Wedding and our Honeymoon in Rhodes, Greece...click here.

Week 122 - Tim and I take a weekend away at Corfe, Dorset. Little did I know...click here.

Weeks 123-128 - Alex and I celebrate our first anniversary in Israel...click here.

Week 129 - The birth of our firstborn Daughter...click here.

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Correction of Error.

While I was composing this index, I unintentionally deleted a week's blog due to a bug in the dashboard displaying two identical blogs. The blog that was deleted was Week 31 which was about backpacking in southern Italy in 1982. 

This covered my journey to Naples from Milan, then on to Sicily, the destination I had in mind to set foot on for the first time in my life. From Naples City Centre, I boarded a local train to Pompeii, where I spent a day at the excavations, walking through the Roman streets, empty of tourists, of a town which perished under the ash of the AD 79 eruption of Mt Vesuvius. 

By the time the sun was setting, I then boarded another train out of Naples to continue my journey to Brindisi on the Adriatic Coast. After arriving the next morning, I spent another day at this port, where ferries sailed out to Greece. At the beginning of the coming night, I boarded a train to continue with the journey, economising on night travel rather than hotels. From Brindisi, the train I was on followed the coastline of the southern section of the Italian Peninsula. At the small hours of the morning, I had to change trains at Taranto Station, and there was an hour's wait for one to arrive to take me to Reggio Calabria to cross the Messina Strait, where this part of the journey is then taken up in Week 32. 

While I was waiting for the train at Taranto, I decided to walk down a narrow deserted street lit by streetlamps. A few metres further along, the street was blocked by a huge dog. As it turned to look at me, having attracted its attention, I turned and walked back to the station. I didn't run, as that would have provoked the dog to start chasing. When I finally passed through the barrierless station forecourt and onto the platform, I breathed a sigh of relief.
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This is just a summary of the deleted blog of Week 31. Next week will be the last weekend before Christmas, therefore, I plan to create a photo extravaganza on the entire biography. I'm hoping to include the photos that would have been featured in the deleted Week 31.

Saturday, 7 December 2024

Travel Biography - Week 129.

The Birth of our Daughter - Reflecting on the Past.

By mid-October of 2000, we finally landed at London Gatwick after a 4-hour flight from Tel Aviv.  A train ride home marked the end of my travel career as Alex's pregnancy progressed.

Excluding foreign holidays with my parents during the sixties, my overseas travel experience as a singleton spanned 26 years, from 1972, when I flew to Spain with a college friend, to 1998, when I flew to New York to escape the World Cup football tournament. As a married man, our first trip overseas was our honeymoon to the Greek island of Rhodes in 1999, followed exactly a year later with a two-week celebratory trip to the Holy Land. The last overseas trip to date was the 2019, one-day trip to Brussels in Belgium, using Eurostar.

Christmas 2000 came and went, and expectations were building. This included installing a cot next to our bed while we were still living in the bachelor's bedsit apartment, my home since I flew the nest in 1976.

I cuddle my firstborn daughter.



February 2001 came around, and our firstborn daughter Rosina was born at Wexham Park Hospital in the Slough area of Berkshire. At the age of 48, I became a father for the first time in my life - an age when my school classmates would already be grandparents. Unfortunately, the baby was in a breach position on the day of delivery, therefore, we agreed with the maternity medical team for an elective caesarian birth. The operation was successful. When the purple-skinned baby was lifted out and started to cry, my own legs gave under emotion and two or three nurses held me up as I blubbered.

Alex was then wheeled into the recovery room before settling in the post-natal maternity ward, her general anaesthetics keeping her asleep for the next hour or so. That was when the newborn was handed to me and I sat alone in a separate room with the child, asleep in my arms as I watched her chest under some clothing rapidly rise and fall.

From that moment, life would never be the same again.

Yet, I felt so much affection for my daughter as I kept on looking at her. As I sat there with the baby cradled in my arms for the first time ever, I dwelt on all the happenings of the past - from the time I was bullied at school for my inability and uselessness in team sports, my first job in a family-owned furniture factory, pushing a broom across the workshop floor and told by the foreman that I was virtually worthless, the one-year courtship with my first girlfriend and how she terminated our relationship, my conversion to the Christian faith in December 1972, and the benefits arising from this, including the time I brought a Gideons New Testament to work, and the same foreman who thought that I was of little worth, turning red with fear at the sight of the small holy book. As a result of the conversion, I enjoyed a knowledge explosion, especially on geology and natural science - which led to my love for travel.

As I held my daughter, I concentrated on all my past trips as a single backpacker.

I thought about all the trips to Israel - Jerusalem! How privileged I was to have walked its streets as an independent traveller, and to gaze down at its historic beauty from the summit of the Mount of Olives. Not to mention the Sea of Galilee with its fishing boats and nets spread on the ground back then. That was where Jesus spent a large part of his ministry. To see the Bible come to life! My first trip to the Middle East on my own in 1976 stirred gossip in the engineering factory where I was working, and my colleagues saw this trip as something of a sensation, the talk of the town. 

I thought about the wonders of the North American continent. How the Niagara Falls in Canada, Salt Lake in Utah, the majestic Grand Canyon in Arizona, and even the tropical species of coconut palms of Florida contrasts with the buzzing life of New York, the semi-tropical setting of San Diego, the fun at Disneyland in the Los Angeles district of Anaheim contrasting with the sorrowful news of the death of the King of Rock, Elvis Presley, while I was walking the streets of Chicago in 1977.

Ah, the Grand Canyon! I recall the two hikes there. The first hike was in 1978, the second in 1995. Both were on the same trail - the Bright Angel Trail leading from the Village to join with the North Kaibab Trail at Phantom Ranch at the Canyon floor, close to the Colorado River. And it was towards the end of the 1995 hike that I went down with hyponatremia, a potentially fatal condition caused by the thinning of the bloodstream by excess drinking of water without the adequate intake of salts. As I lay in agonising muscle pain on the deserted trail under a darkening sky, two hikers arrived, and seeing the state I was in, one of them carried my heavy rucksack over a short distance to the Mile-and-a-Half rest station, where I spent the night alone in the hut before resuming the hike after daybreak to finish unassisted at the trailhead. Afterwards, a cup of electrolyte drink helped me on my way to recovery before heading south to Phoenix.

Who knows - had it not been for the timely arrival of those two hikers, my daughter Rosina, sleeping soundly on my lap, might never have existed!

My beloved daughter, Rosina.



Then, less than two years later in 1997, after five days spent in Singapore, I found myself snorkelling over the Great Barrier Reef. I visited three islands, Green Island, Low Isle coral cays, and Border Island one of the Whitsunday archipelago which are continental islands with a fringe reef attached to them. Together with the Blue Mountains National Park with its waterfalls at Katoomba near Sydney, in reflection of all these destinations around the world, it looked as if Providence had compensated for the wretched teenage years I went through - failed academically and bullied at school, or the Lost Years as I sometimes refer to that period of my life, lousy at team sports, hence rejected by the team captain, both my parents and my first employer giving me a low worth evaluation, and yes, at times I felt suicidal.

Now looking back, how well I was compensated. And now, about to enter a new phase of my life albeit rather late - fatherhood.

About an hour after the procedure, a nurse summoned us as Alex was wheeled from the recovery room to the post-natal ward, where she needed to spend the next few days before being transferred to Heatherwood Hospital Maternity Unit in Ascot. Daily transport to Wexham was very difficult by either bus or train as there were no direct services, so I had to depend mainly on my inlaws, Alex's parents, as well as church friends, to take me there and to bring me back home for the night, the distance on the road being over 17 miles or 27 km.

After three days at Heatherwood, Alex was deemed good to return home with the baby, the start of a new life with a fledgling family.

Living in the Present Day.

As I write this blog, at present, I'm 72 years old, and a State pensioner. I find walking difficult, gaining leg muscle aches if the distance is long, say, more than half a mile. Hence, I now keep walking well under restriction - quite a contrast to hiking the Grand Canyon in 1995, the strenuous Dorset Coastal Path in 1996, or even the Broadway Walk through Manhatten in 1998. 

I have never driven a car in my life, therefore if I'm not using public transport, I ride a bicycle to get where I need to go. But even this is becoming more difficult, especially on Sundays in inclement weather, when I need to cover 4.5 miles predominantly uphill to get to our church in Ascot. Again, this contrasts with 1990 for example, when I rode the length of Britain from end to end, as well as competing in triathlons across the country.

Having suffered from a regurgitating aortic valve by 2015, I had to go under the knife at Harefield Hospital, Uxbridge, for a major cardiac procedure to have the valve replaced which involved open heart surgery. Sometime after recovery, I attended a special exercise class twice a week for six weeks at Windsor Leisure Centre specified for cardiac patients. When the twelve classes were over, I was advised by my GP to carry on exercising, which I did at the Bracknell Leisure Centre. On my 63rd birthday, I retired from paid work two years earlier than the legal age of 65, yet still later than many professionals who tend to retire at 60. 

I tended to injure myself in the gym at my hometown of Bracknell, with one instance being taken by ambulance to Frimley Park Hospital directly from the Leisure Centre, I have swapped the rowing machine and treadmill for the swimming pool, and to this day I lane swim for an hour once a week.

As for Travel, at my age and declining health, it's no longer a priority. Right now, it's just Alex and I living together, secure in a safe, robust marriage. This year, we celebrated our Silver Wedding Anniversary with a meal at a self-serving buffet restaurant in the town centre. But gone are the days of overseas travel, yet remaining rich in memories, backed by many photo albums.

Alex with Rosina and her younger sister, Louise



I was very fortunate to have taken advantage of overseas travel when I had the opportunity! In my day, we were a member nation of the European Union. Take 1991 for example. That year, I rode on a bicycle from the Weymouth area to Dover, then the morning after arriving in Dover, I cycled from the hostel to the harbour, bought a return ticket to the French port of Calais, and boarded the ferry as easily as boarding a train. Absolutely no hassle. All I had to do was show my passport at the appropriate site.

Now that we had left the EU, if I wanted to board a ferry to France, I would first have to apply for ETIAS, that is to receive authorisation to enter the Schengen countries of Europe. And there's a price to pay for the authorisation. Furthermore, at the port or airport, there's talk of facial recognition scans and fingerprints taken before boarding. This, to me, who has travelled, is the sad consequence of Brexit - a national mistake that should never have occurred.

Likewise, for Britons to visit the USA, the ESTA, an electronic visa-waiver authorisation document was introduced after the 9/11 attack at the World Trade Center in New York in 2001. At the time of that disaster, Rosina was seven months old, thus long-haul travel was already past. But before 9/11, buying an air ticket to the USA was as easy as buying a train ticket.

At age 55, my 3rd daughter, Victoria, was born.



Hence my Travel Biography is complete. For all those who have read all or most of it, I hope that it was an enjoyable read. Just a final reminder: that it wasn't my original idea to write it. It was started after giving time for consideration when several of my readers requested it. Some even suggested writing a book, but since the Internet has taken over our lifestyles, the humble book seems to be going out of fashion. I look around the church. Some read their Bibles on an electronic tablet. Furthermore, using the Internet eliminates the risk of rejection of the manuscript by the publisher.

What I will try to do next week is create an index blog of this Biography with links to each section. For example, there should be a direct link from the index to my childhood and teenage years, my first backpacking experience, in Israel in 1976, the USA in 1977 and 1978, a direct link to the USA in 1995, and Round the World in 1997, along with links to other parts of the Biography. Thus, if you wish to read any part without excessive scrolling, I hope this index will enable you to do so.

I thank you all for reading, and I hope you've enjoyed it.