Travel Biography Photo Extravaganza - Part 28.

A Recap on Cairns as I journey to Townsville, and then to Arlie Beach.

In 1997, Cairns was the beginning of a new adventure, although in reality, it wasn't really new. Only in a different country, Australia, a British Commonwealth nation that was once a colony of the British Empire. During the 1970s and in 1995, I had a similar experience, travelling around on a public coach service, specifically a Greyhound bus, across the North American continent. And now, I was about to embark on the same journey, this time with the nighttime Southern Cross constellation in the heavens looking down from directly above. 

However, the entire journey from Cairns to Sydney was considerably shorter than the one from New York to San Francisco via San Diego and Los Angeles. While the 1995 American Dream covered four weeks, my stay in Australia was nearly six weeks. Down Under, I stayed at each stop for a longer period, allowing me to get better acquainted with the local environment I found myself in.

As for Cairns, as a city in itself, it wasn't different to many other cities. However, I noticed that it possessed a unique set of qualities. Firstly, having a tidal mudflat for a beach must have provided an ideal haven for a variety of wildlife, especially mud dwellers. Unlike on a sandy or pebbly beach, no one would spread a towel or blanket on a mudflat or swim in the sea. Hence, I was able to enjoy its natural state, untouched by tourism or daytrippers.

Secondly, Cairns is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, and access to it in the nineties was easy and inexpensive. While I was there, I had the impression that tourism to the Reef was still in its infancy, despite competition among the diving centres dotted across town. Unfortunately, over the decades, tourism, along with the warming of the sea due to climate change, has decimated parts of the Reef, especially around Green Island and perhaps at Low Isles too. Indeed, the timing of my visit was timely.

Thirdly, the Trinity Forest Reservation covering the hills south of the town provided a splendid backdrop, which kept my camera shutter constantly clicking. Indeed, the reservation was inaccessible for hikers due to the mouth of the Chinaman River, and although there was no bridge, nevertheless, the whole vista was enhanced by the presence of water.

And now it was time to move on. When reserving a seat on the Greyhound Bus, I chose Townsville for my next stop. However, after arriving there, I found this city less touristy, more industrious and less interesting than Cairns, fewer diving centres, and with little or no access to the Reef. However, it boasted the largest coral reef aquarium in the world, known as the Reef Headquarters, and it was worth a day's visit. However, the aquarium was later closed and its building demolished in 2021, and a new building on the same site is due to open in 2026. 

Townsville was backed by the 286-metre-high monolith, Castle Hill. Unfortunately, I didn't hike up the hill, as the lookout would have offered stunning views of the town, its harbour, and about five miles (8km) offshore, Magnetic Island would also be seen.

Stock photo of the Reef HQ as it was in 1997.

Magnetic Island was given that name by Captain James Cook whilst on board the HMS Endeavour. As he passed its coastline, so the story goes, his magnetic compass went haywire. However, later research proved that the island had no unique magnetic properties, yet the name stuck. My stay in Townsville was centred on both the aquarium and a short ferry crossing to Nelly Bay on the island. Here, day hikes offer vistas of the World War II fort, from magnificent views of Radical Beach, Horseshoe Bay, and the island's highest peak, Mt Cook, at 493 metres in height, are all seen at once.

In this album, I also include photos of the Billabong Wildlife Sanctuary. It's on the route out of Townsville as the bus headed to my next destination, Arlie Beach, which makes up the second half of this album. In this sanctuary (and it wasn't a zoo), I had full access to both the Koalas and the Wallabies, which are related to the Kangaroo, all of them unique to Australia, along with the Silver-Crested Cockatoo. The bird was caged, but I was able to gently stroke the Koala and stand in the same enclosure with the Wallabies.

Accommodation in Townsville was at a private, unaffiliated backpacker's hostel in the city centre and not far from the Greyhound Bus Station. As with all other hostels, it too had a member's kitchen and dining room. Buying groceries and cooking my own meals was what turned such a dream of travelling around the world a reality.

After three days, I journeyed on to Arlie Beach, which is further south along the Queensland coast. To me, Arlie Beach was a better stop than Townsville. Arlie Beach and its nearby town of Cannonvale were in a more scenic setting, and Arlie Beach had a harbour and a marina which gave access to the Whitsunday Islands, a continental archipelago of partly sunken hills which has ancient art, hiking trails, and fringing reefs. Also at Arlie Beach, I basically had a room of my own in an otherwise empty dormitory. Catering facilities were also featured at the lovely backpackers' resort.

It was at Arlie Beach where, for the first time, I came up close to Mangrove trees. This fascinating vegetation, with its roots above water at low tide to allow it to "breathe", flourishes within the Tropical Belt of the Oceania region and as far south as New South Wales. I felt awstruck just by looking at them.

This week's album has photos of my arrival at Arlie Beach. Photos of my trip to the Whitsundays will feature next week. 

For the link to the Index of the main Biography covering my arrival at Townsville and Arlie Beach, click here. This album is covered in Weeks 82-87.

Photos of Townsville and Magnetic Island.

A Fountain near the coast, Townsville.

Townsville City Centre, near the hostel.

The town is backed by Castle Hill.

Reef HQ. At one of the coral aquariums.

This time, I stayed dry. But it's not the same.

In another tank, a swordfish.

A hiking trail begins on Magnetic Island.

A WWII lookout post against Chinese invasion.

Radical Bay as seen from near the Fort.

Around the Fort, I was totally alone. But I hiked on.

Horseshoe Bay.

Mt Cook, the highest hill of the Island.

Another view of Horseshoe Bay.

A Silver-Crested Cockatoo, Billabong Sanctuary.

I had access to a Koala pen at Billabong Sanctuary.

I was free to caress, even cuddle one.

I stroked its back. It didn't seem to mind.

I then entered the Wallaby pen.

There were several Wallabies in the pen.

Like the Koala, they don't seem to mind my presence.

I finally leave them be.

Photos of my arrival at Arlie Beach.

The backpackers' resort at Arlie Beach.

Scenic view of the environment.

Birds fly across the Esplanade at Arlie Beach.

Arlie Beach Town.

Relaxing at the Esplanade.

Public swim enclosures protect against stingers.

Mangroves!

A view towards the Whitsundays.

Arlie Beach Marina.

The forested Great Divide continues along the coast.

On the beach, I come across some mangrove trees.

 Standing next to a tree gives the scale.

I caught this individual on camera.

A close-up of the roots of a mangrove.

Aussie definitions:

Billabong - A pond left behind when a river seasonally dries up.

Stingers - A common name for the Box Jellyfish, also known as a Sea Wasp. Its sting can be fatal.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next week, the boat trip to the Whitsundays.

Travel Biography Photo Extravaganza - Part 27.

Preparing for the sailing to Port Douglas and the Low Isles Snorkelling Trip.

As I sauntered along the streets of Cairns and looked out across the mudflat out to the ocean, I was barely able to take in where I was. Wow! This is Australia! How was it possible to travel so far from the UK? Indeed, I have already tasted the delights of first-hand experience of the Great Barrier Reef, and I was hungry for more. Yet, I also thought about home. My parents were in favour of my enjoyment of long-haul travel. But there was also someone else showing interest in me, yet I was totally unaware. A pretty teenager with a tomboy temperament already had her eyes on me. How could I be aware that in less than three years, I would marry her? 

But, in the meantime, as I gazed out into the Pacific Ocean from the esplanade, any ideas of marriage were as far away as I was from my hometown apartment. The recent catamaran trip to Green Island was more than an eye-opener. My new awareness of the marine life making up the Great Barrier Reef has converted me from a mere curiosity to an enthusiast. And I wanted to see more.

Stock photo of Low Isle coral cay.

During the 5-day stay in Cairns, I took three trips. The first was to Green Island. The second was a Quicksilver catamaran sailing to Port Douglas. This trip was just to check out this small resort, around 41 miles or 66 km northwest of Cairns. There were two routes to Port Douglas, the road route by bus, and by sea on the catamaran. This vessel was larger than the Big Cat and provided access to the Low Isles, another coral cay on the inner Great Barrier Reef. This time, there was no pre-snorkel talk.

On the way out of Cairns, the catamaran stopped at a pier, the Palm Cove Jetty, leading to a small village of the same name north of Clifton Beach, looking more like a deserted spot backed by a forested mountain. This was because the village itself was hidden from the view of the catamaran by a copse of trees, giving an impression of being in the middle of nowhere, the jetty serving an isolated beach.

Out at sea, we passed the twin hills of Double Island, also covered in forest, which were all that remained of the sunken continental shelf, which was once above sea level before the thawing of the Ice Age. The whole of the Reef flourished on this sunken shelf, all 1,400 miles (2,300 km) of it. Thus, such an island is known as a Continental Island, and many are part of the Reef complex. These islands include the Whitsunday Islands off Arlie Beach, some of which have Fringe Reefs.

The harbour of Port Douglas was smaller than the Cairns' version, but catamarans sailed out of Port Douglas, and one Quicksilver boat was ready to leave for the Low Isles and to the Outer Reef, the latter was better for scuba divers. However, I wasn't prepared to board just like that. Therefore, with some regret at not being properly prepared, I remained on shore as the catamaran pulled out to sea. But I was determined to be on board at my next visit. Instead, I spent that day first by swimming in the sea, then watching a live band perform across a field, then I had a walk around town and its indoor shopping mall.

The return sailing on the Quicksilver catamaran was non-stop as the boat shot past Palm Cove Jetty as it headed south before docking in Cairns Harbour.

Either the next day or two days later, I made my way from the hostel to the Pier Mall and the harbour. There was a Quicksilver catamaran waiting to depart, and I boarded it and asked whether I could buy a return ticket to Low Isles. The lady complied and sold me the ticket. Like in the Big Cat, refreshments such as coffee and biscuits were free with the ticket.

The catamaran remained moored until it filled up with other passengers. Eventually, it pulled out as it began to head for Port Douglas. Here, I would change boats for the one to the Low Isles. During this journey, my top was a black vest or tank top. But after arriving at Low Isles, I would change into a button-up shirt. This prevented getting sunburnt on my back while I was snorkelling.

The proper name of my destination is Low Isles Reef, but there are two islands, one considerably larger than the other, giving the whole complex a heart-shaped outline when seen from the air. The larger island is covered by a mangrove forest, and the sandbank is submerged during high tide, with the tops of the trees remaining above water. This is Woody Island, and it's inaccessible to the public due to its cyclic submergence. The smaller island is Low Isle, a proper coral cay, smaller than Green Island, but also surrounded by a beach consisting of coarse sand and broken seashells. It's not the beach for building sandcastles!

There was no resort, no swimming pool or hotel on Low Isle, as there were on Green Island, and no public path or trail. In 1997, there was only one edifice, a lighthouse, although a weather station might have existed back then as it does at present. The beach slopes away more deeply into the sea than at Green Island; hence, the coral surrounding the island was richer and grew taller and more compact. However, I also saw that the reef was wanting of free-swimming fish, perhaps a turtle as well. Like at Green Island, the water surrounding the island was murky, but I managed to collect an album of underwater photos of the corals, using a single-use underwater camera I bought on the catamaran.

Click here for the link to the Index, where you have access to the main Biography, Weeks 78-81.

Photos of Port Douglas and Low Isles.

About to leave Cairns for Port Douglas.

The cat sails out to sea before turning northwest.

Offshore islands like this one dot the coastline.

The cat paused here at Palm Cove, at Clifton Beach.

The catamaran speeds up past Double Islands.

We arrive a Port Douglas Harbour.

This Quicksilver cat brought me to Port Douglas.

I swim in the sea at the Four-Mile Beach.

Port Douglas esplanade as seen from the beach.

After the swim, I watch a live band play.

The esplanade is in full swing.

A tropical seaside resort. I love it!

I walk into town.

Port Douglas shopping mall, interior.

The next day, we arrive at Low Isle, a coral cay.

Looking at Woody Island from the boat. Low tide.

Tropical cay vegetation.

I swapped the tank top for a shirt before wading in.

During the lunch break, I had a wander around.

I posed with our boat behind me.

Underwater Photos of the Low Isles Corals.

Like at Green Island, the water here was murky.

However, since the water was deeper here...

The corals were thicker and more luxuriant.

However, swings and roundabouts...

The fish population was healthier at Green Island.

Soft coral mingled with hard coral.

Although a few of us were snorkelling, I was mainly alone.

Like at Green Island, sometimes the water clears.

Different species of soft and hard corals.

I still long to see some fish. Where are they?

Yet, the sheer beauty of tropical marine life...

...had a powerful impact on the rest of my life.

Learn about the GBR is more than a school experience.

A Cauliflower Coral? Perhaps not.

The tranquil felt in this environment was breathtaking.

I'm aware that these pics aren't as pro as desired...

...but with a $10 cardboard camera, these are good.

And their height was impressive.

A staff member sang to his guitar as we sailed home.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next Week, I leave Cairns for Townsville.